The Forbidden Hill

September 18, 2009 at 12:54 am | In itchy backside | Leave a Comment
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Fort Canning (福康宁) was known as Bukit Larangan in Malay in the 19th century before the arrival of Stamford Raffles in 1918, whch means “Forbidden Hill”. This is because the Malays believed that it was the site of palaces built by their ancestral kings. The Keramat Iskandar Shah at the foot of the hill was believed to be the resting place of the last Malay king of the island, and was venerated by Muslims. Later, Singapore’s colonial leaders made their residences there, and the hill became a military base during the Second World War.

sign
Short writeup of Fort Canning…The Civil District logo was done by my
friend… :)

I knew there were some archaeological excavation years back on Fort Canning Hill, but I think it was kinda covered or out of bound to visitors for some time before they were done with all the digging, cos I couldn’t remember seeing the site at all.

sign2
So, the work should be done only in the late 90s as this exhibition site was
only opened in 2001…and that was the time when I was not in Singapore…

site
The excavation site…it was interested to read the explanatory signs
around..the only thing was the hot and humid weather made it very
uncomfortable to really read slowly…so as usual, I took photos so I can
read back again at home.. :p

The excavation work actually started back in 1984. Among the artefacts recovered were porcelain, earthenware and glass shards. These artefacts show that there could have been a Malay kingdom on Fort Canning Hill, with possibility of glass and gold workshops.

ceramics
One of the signs explaining how archaeologists determine the age of
ceramics artefacts – by using a method called Carbon-14 dating
, which has
a margin for error of at least 75 years. Another technique called
Thermoluminescence (TL) dating
, which measures bits of trapped energy in
the crystalline materials of pottery. The shadow you see was from my
Itchyfingers… :D

bits
Bits and pieces of porcelain excavated from Fort Canning. No complete
pieces were found as it was not a burial site. Rather the area was more
like a place where daily activities were carried out. Maybe a bit like a dumping
ground where unwanted stuff were just left there..?

From the excavation ground, we went to look at the rows of embedded tombstones…Fort Canning Hill used to have the earliest Christian cemetery. This cemetery ceased to be used by the end of 1822; all traces of this burial ground have also disappeared except the inscriptions on tombstones now embedded in the wall surrounding it.

tomb
I would love to look and read all the tombstones again, but it was such a
hot and humide day and I was wearing a rather thick tee-shirt…not forgetting
all the mozzies flying around…

The caretaker was still with us so I didn’t want to take up too much of his time either, though I am sure he was more than happy to have people talking to him. In the end, I managed to take a few photos of the tombstones…

tomb1
Many of the people died at a very young age. This belongs to Jane, an
assistant surgeon on the Bombay Establishment, wife of Thomas Henry.
She was only 22 years old when she died…
:(

woods
He was just a baby…! Wonder what was the cause of death…

spottiswoode
Does the name Spottiswoode sound familiar? Not sure if the road with the
same name was named after this Charles Spottiswoode. He was a respected
merchant who was living at his residence “Spottiswoode Park” at the time
of his death…

I read that there were some prominent person who were buried in the cemetery. One of them was George Dromgold Coleman, the first Government Architect, Superintendent of Public Works and Executive Officer of the Convicts and Surveyor. Oooo…must find some time to go back again to look for it…

memorial
At the other end were these remaining tombs. But my friend said they
should be just monuments as tombstone with bodies buried underneath
should normally read something like, “Herein lies xxx…”

memorial2
But this one looked like a tombstone…

memorial4
Hmmm…maybe she was right. The bottom line said this monument was
erected by the nephew

memorial3
The inscription here were quite clear after all these years…

lee
I found this interesting and tried to look up for this person…but could not
find any information other than a link on a The Straits Times (pg 14) notice on
27 September 1927
. It read, “NOTICE IN THE ESTATF OF LEE KHIA SOON,
DECEASED Pursuant to Ordinance No. 144….”  I think he must be one of those
rich merchants…

There were lots more interesting stories and person behind these old tombstones or monuments, but as it was getting late again, we decided to make our way down. Itchyfingers would definitely be back, as I missed some of the old buildings and many of the trees were so beautiful…Fort Canning Hill today is no longer the “Forbidden Hill”, as it is a popular venue for outdoor performances and events. I think if people were to spend more time to understand the history of Fort Canning Hill, we would be able to appreciate it even more. :)

Also see related post:
> Guardian Angel at the Forbidden Hill


Guardian Angel at the Forbidden Hill

September 15, 2009 at 2:29 pm | In itchy backside | 2 Comments
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Itchyfingers had an exciting weekend…one which brought me back to my school days, and one which also reminded us to respect other people’s beliefs and most importantly, to respect nature. Wow…so deep…hahah…let me elaborate… :p

It all started cos I wanted to watch Ironman under the stars. The local radio station had two free movie screenings on last Saturday evening at Fort Canning Hill – the first one being Ironman and then followed by Transformers 2. Since I missed Ironman and also have not been to Fort Canning for a long time, I thought it would be fun to go.

But we ended up reaching a bit late at 7pm cos we were distracted at the new malls along the way…No, the show had not started yet as there was some contests and games going on..but the field was already filled with a sea of people! Couldn’t really get a good spot to sit…

crowd
Now…just where to find a spot to rest my itchybackside? 8)

We went up the steps where we saw the wall with the rows of embedded tombstones. It reminded me of my (either first or among the first few) visit to Fort Canning Hill during school time. I remembered reading through all the tombstones with my school mates. It was a bit dark that night to read and we were still trying to get a place to watch the movie. But I told myself, “I will be back.”

When we got to the Fort Canning Centre, I must say we had the best unobstructed view there. The only thing was, we would have to stand for the next two hours or so as all the sitting areas with clear views were taken. The show was still not starting yet…since we weren’t that hot on watching Ironman standing, we decided to give it a miss and take a slow walk down the hill.

view
Best view…hahah…but gotta risk falling over :p

Somehow my friend suggested walking over to take a look at the Keramat, which I remembered was the site of a Malay King’s tomb. Maybe because it is still the Lunar Seventh Ghost Month, that’s why we had the sudden interest…hahah…Both of us couldn’t really remember how it looked like…it was such a long time since we last visited Fort Canning Hill, and especially the Keramat. :p  I think they might have changed the design of the pavilion, which is now styled after the 14th Century Malay roof called a pendopo.

We were greeted by a guy mopping the surrounding of the Keramat. I asked if he is a volunteer and he said he is the caretaker, and told us it was okay to enter the Keramat but we had to take off our shoes (as a form of respect). We didn’t enter since he was still mopping and I didn’t want to take photo with flash out of respect, so we went around reading the signage as I really had no recollection as to who was this Malay King… :p

keramat
Ooooo…So this is the Keramat for Iskandar Syah (or Shah), the last of five kings
of Singapore….Wow!! I really don’t remember ever reading this in my History
textbook….

Then the friendly caretaker told us Iskandar Syah was also known as Parameswara, whom my friend instantly recognised the name…er…but I didn’t…hahah…obviously I was dosing off during the very dry history lessons in school…. :D Bad Tisu Girl! :p

KING
The Kings of Singapore

Somehow the caretaker started talking to us about the Keramat. It was never confirmed if this was the exact location where the body was buried, but there were stories (or rumours) that during early excavation, there were ‘things’ happening. We were surprised to know that he used to be an IT manager. He had been visiting the Keramat for many years but it was only three years ago that he had a certain dream that made him decide to come and look after the Keramat full time. Some kind of calling, I supposed. He shared with us some interesting titbits about the architecture of the pendopo, like the motifs that look like mask and crown, and the tiger teeth. The light was dim for us to fully appreciate the design though. He also mentioned about the 20 pillars supporting the structure – they were supposed to be the 20 (supernatural) guards guarding the tomb. According to him, when he was there, he saw many people came trying to get favours, and he vividly remembered many years ago before he became the caretaker, three men came to ask for 4D lucky numbers. When they came back again after striking it rich, one of them was paralysed, and his thought was that he was being punished for asking for short cuts in life. There were also some stories he heard from drunkards or vagabonds who slept at the Keramat at night that they saw a big creature dragging them out of the sacred site. For a moment I thought to myself, if not for the fact that my friend was with me and there was also a tourist who came to visit, I might have gone home thinking all these was my imagination, and that there was no such guy at the Keramat!! After all it was the Ghost Month! :p!

Well, whether we believed what he said is true or not, I guess we have to respect other people’s beliefs. After all, there are so many things in this world that are still unexplained. And to give up one’s career and devote his time to take care of a site (for free!) which he truly believed in is something not many people would be willing to do. But he strongly felt that it was something he had to do, and he also enjoyed talking to visitors and tourists and bringing them around the park. He also told us about a giant Fig tree that looked like a woman hugging another tree, and there were also others with snake-like roots around. It was too dark to see anything but I was already getting curious…I had decided to come back the next day to take a look, and also to look at the other part of Fort Canning Hill. We did catch about 20 minutes of Ironman in the end…hahah..

The next day when we went back to the Keramat, someone was already there doing his prayers. Not wanting to disturb him, I could only take a photo from outside…

keramat2
Fresh flowers were offered. I forgot to check out the design motifs he was
telling us the previous night   :(

We saw the caretaker again. (Yeah…so confirmed I wasn’t dreaming last night… :p) So I asked him about the Fig tree…Actually it was visible from where we were standing, just that to see the woman’s feature we had to go down a small slope to get to see it…

When we reached there, all I could say was that, you really need to have a lot of imagination to see the ‘woman’…

Fig
I had expected to see a woman’s face or the whole body, cos that was what
I thought the caretaker meant…instead, what he showed me was what
looked like a woman’s lower body with legs slightly opened…er…can you
see that? This fig tree is slowly engulfing another tree, which he said is a
species of the mango family

It reminded me of the Bodhi Tree (Ficus Religiosa) at the Jin Long Si Temple 金龙寺 that believers claimed to see the Guanyin’s palm and other figures.

palm
Believers sweared that they see the Guanyin’s palm…I remembered it looked
more obvious on the photo on display…

The caretaker also showed me the interesting snake-like roots that were only discovered after NPark cleared the overgrown vegetation there.

yam
Hmm…this I gotta admit I have never seen Yam plants’ roots growing above
ground like this….

Finally, he showed me the ‘face’ of a unknown creature on another tree…

face
Wow! This one I seriously cannot make out any facial feature….can you?
It might need to be a certain time of the day with the correct lighting to have
a better view…

Again, it reminded me of the case of the Monkey Tree at Jurong that caused a big havoc years ago, which experts explained was the result of callusing, a natural reaction in which the tree grows new bark over injured areas. I am not sure about this tree, cos I am no expert in trees. But I didn’t tell him my thoughts on this, as everyone is entitled to believe in what they choose to believe in.

We walked around the park for a while before saying good-bye as my friend had to go off for a family gathering. But I managed to spend a little time looking at the tombstones again…and also some interesting finds around the park, which Itchyfingers shall write about in the next post. 8)

Also see related Posts:
> Carving a Living – Varnishing Trades
Paper Merchants
Paper Goodies
> Tomb Raiding the Tree-strangled Temple – Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia Trip #4
>
Money No Enough Too
> Death Notes

Hunters & Collectors – The Origins of The SouthEast Asian Collection

August 19, 2009 at 9:51 pm | In itchy backside | Leave a Comment
Tags: , , , , , ,

Besides the many animal specimens on special loan from the Raffles Museum of Biodiversity Research (RMBR), there were other interesting artefacts that were collected by the six collectors featured in the Hunter & Collectors exhibition now at the Asian Civilisation Museum (ACM).

figure1
A Dayak Hampatong, or ancestor figure from Sarawak, Malaysia.
Try to identify the four animals flanking it…
:p

figure3
One of the ancestor carvings collected in 1887, commonly found in
households throughout the Nias Islands of Indonesia

figure2
Ancestor carvings served as reminders of the deceased and as charms to
protect the household. They were containers for ancestral spirits. It was
believed that by trapping the last breath of a dying person, the soul could be
contained and transferred to the carving :)

coconut
This ain’t normal coconut shell, but a coconut shell container for fishing
bait. This was dated back at least a century ago!

abbott
Singapore a “rotten place”?! Wow! What did we do to annoy him? Read on
and you realised he was just complaining to his sister in a letter that he
felt uncomfortable in towns and preferred to rough it out in faraway places.
William Louis Abbott (1860 – 1936) spent a good 10 years in Singapore from
1899. He was the one who discovered the large endangered seabird, the Abbott’s
Booby
(Papasula abbotti)
on Assumption Island in 1892. The bird is named
after him

basket
A basket collected from the Iban, natives of the island of Borneo. This was
carried on the back like a haversack, probably used to store precious
harvest like grains

kris
Of the many kris (keris)
on display, Itchyfingers felt this was quite unique…

figure4
Closeup of this keris with hilt in the form of a deity (19th century, Bali, East
Java). The figure depicts Bayu, the Hindu god of the wind. Bayu is often shown
encrusted with jewels and holding a prominent centre stone which symbolises
amritsa, the elixir of life

bullet
A bullet holder from Sumatra, Indonesia. Some of the lead bullets are still
inside the holder!

record
Old records of specimens collected

AR
These were some reports of the Raffles Library and Museum for the years
1874 to 1900, consisting research papers written by museum staff and
other scholars about the collection. Notice the design of the book looks like
what we can still find in the shops nowadays? Hmmm…certain things sure
can survive the tests of time… haha…

shell
A shell ornament…dunnu from which turtle or tortoise…poor thing….

plate
From Kelantan and Perak, Malay Peninsula in the 19th century. Any idea
what were these for?
8)

boy
See where the plate was used? Haha….the plates are called the ‘modesty
plates’, used to cover the boys’ you-know-where….hahahah…. 8)

The ‘modesty plates’ were really small since they were for children. Then what about adults? :D ?

buckle
No, you are wrong if you think these bigger plates are ‘modesty plates’ for
adults… :p They are actually buckles… hahah…

kettle
Beautiful Ceret (Kettle) from Brunei

kettle2
A Kendi (Water Vessel) from West Sumatra, Indonesia

textile
A sarong, probably belonged to the Iban Dayak from Sarawak. The repeated
geometric design, known as hooked lozenges, is one of the most basic forms,
and is used to represent living beings, both human and animals

armour
A closeup of the unusual armour, probably from the Iban Dayak, Borneo
in the 19th century. This war-coat is made of bark and fish scales. Some
Iban Dayak are known for using the skin of a scaly anteater to make these
war-coat

cros
A carved wooden crocodile from Sarawak. It is believed that crocodiles
have the power to capture the soul of a human, which would entice the body
to come looking for the soul, and fall prey to the croc. This wooden croc,
possibly a preventive talisman, could have been carved by an image maker
or a shamen

lizard
Decorative house panels. They actually reminded me of the aboriginal
arts of Australia.. :p

figure
A female ancestor figure from the Eastern Indonesian Archipelago

madonna
We were wondering why this figure looked so familar. So this is Madonna
and Child, from East Timor. Colonised in the 16th century by the Portuguese,
East Timor was one of the earliest areas in the region to see mass conversion
to Christianity. While the image was probably made locally to copy the
European style, the face mirrored those of local ancestor images and carved
in the local style

Museums today are getting more informational and interactive. There are always no lack of activities to engage both the young and the old. Do look out for the fun stations located throughout the gallery where you can listen to indigenous music, collect embossed tribal symbols and hunt for missing objects in the Virtual Raffles Library & Museum! :) The Hunters & Collectors exhibition is on till 21 September!

Also see related post:
> When the Hunters Became the Hunted – Hunters & Collectors

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